Reflections from 2010 Trip to Guatemala – Mayan Families

It always takes me some time to process the experiences from our trips to Guatemala – so now that we have been home for about a week and are beginning to talk about them – I think some of the feelings are able to be put into words…

As a recap, Matt and I made the choice to go to Guatemala to work with Mayan Families – we would have the chance to do service work, figure out some of the logistics for the trips we would be leading, and… we got to celebrate our 15^th anniversary. J A group of 32 individuals from Cincinnati allowed us to join them on their trip. It is amazing how you can join a group where you don’t know anyone – but find individuals with a similar desire to serve others and develop friendships along the way – just another added benefit! So here goes…

This was the first time we had spent so much time in the Panajachel area (Pana) around Lake Atitlan. There are similarities to Antigua, but at the same time it is much more traditional and indigenous in culture. We witnessed the beautiful traje (clothing) on many more of the people that we came into contact with – women, children, and the men. Spanish was spoken frequently, but Kaqchiquel was spoken by many in the villages surrounding the lake. As I have always said though – a smile, friendly word, direct eye contact, and a gentle touch can speak volumes across all of the language barriers.

On our first full day in Guatemala we traveled to El Barranco, a small community of approximately 350 families. Some of us traveled in vans, while others opted for a very traditional mode of transportation – in the back of an open pick-up truck with a metal “cage” for support. Though I don’t recommend this choice of transportation on a normal basis J, it was an experience in itself. The colors were that much brighter; the sounds of life that much clearer; the interaction with the people on the street that much richer – and the bumps on the little dirt road that we turned onto which ran through the corn field that much “bumpier.” Occasionally we even picked up a passenger, normally a child going the same way we were that was sponsored for school through Mayan Families supporters.

We traveled to the community of El Barranco for a “cultural event.” In my opinion that description doesn’t do it justice… Our group of 34 volunteers was treated to a joyful morning of dancing and interaction with the families of El Barranco. As we walked into the community center - after walking by houses where mothers were washing dishes in the pila, pigs were walking in the “yards”, turkeys were scurrying amongst the cornstalks, and children sheepishly smiled at us – I had a moment where I got quite emotional. As I looked around, I met the eyes of another man on the trip, whom I had just met the day before. We exchanged a couple of quick words and recognized that for both of us it was a very moving moment that still can’t necessarily be put into words.

The adults and children were all very gracious to us – spreading pine needles on the ground in a sign of respect and greeting. Two volunteers in the community have taken on the responsibility to teach traditional dances to the children – in an effort to carry on their rich heritage. We were lucky enough to be treated to the traditional dances. I was reminded of watching the recitals of my own children – sometimes the kids are “on”, sometimes they are “lost”, and the clothes are brightly colored – however here it is their normal traditional clothing. We laughed and interacted with the children as they performed 6 or 7 dances – including the Corn Dance, Monkey Dance, and Hunting Dances. As I experienced a profound joy – I imagined the emotions that Melanie, Becca, and Lauren would feel watching these children experience joy through dance – and getting the opportunity to dance for them and teach them. I imagined how it would be to see Jake, Hollie, Jonah, Cora, Joey, Jonah, Allison and the many other children dancing with the kids at the end.

I loved this event as our group came in not only to give them donations of shoes and clothes, but in reality to receive a gift from this community. The camaraderie and pride amongst the children is something that continues to amaze me. Matt even met two special friends (Daniel, age 7 & Katarina, age 6) – they were his “buddies” while we watched the dances. Daniel was very inquisitive – and we learned that his mother was working in another town, Solola; his father wasn’t “in the picture”; his uncle was one of the two volunteers teaching the dances; and that he goes to school one day a week. The little girl kept putting her head down on Matt’s shoulder…

We spent the afternoon at the Nature Reserve next to Lake Atitlan. Remember we are in the Highlands of Guatemala – so the elevation is around 5,000 ft. The reserve is a beautiful area of lush green plants. I would have liked to have more time to just explore, but once we were fitted in our harnesses for ziplining – off we trekked – straight up a mountain. On the way we passed waterfalls, spider monkeys, and landscapes that made you believe you were hiking in the Smoky Mountains. We traversed hanging wooden bridges – no jumping allowed! J As we got to the top, I remembered I have this fear of heights and don’t quite feel comfortable about stopping myself on this zipline…uh oh. Though I made it across the zipline – it was not a graceful stop at all – and I don’t think the guy liked me running into him! I can’t say I was too fond of it myself. L Though most of the children and adults were able to master the “stopping” – there were a couple of us that decided to go harnessed with a guide. The nice part was that I got to just hang out and enjoy the experience (and the occasional big leaf) as the guide did the work. We went on 9 ziplines across the beautiful ravine – the waterfall on one side and the lake on the other. It is definitely an experience I can “check off” on my “Life Experiences List!”

On Monday, the work began…. donations sorted, training on how to build the ONIL stoves, and the construction crew out working on building rebar forms. Throughout the week, one of my favorite memories is watching the children of our group go into many different schools and settings to fit the Guatemalan children with new shoes. There would be clothes, underwear, and shoes available – but there was no doubt where the Guatemalan children would head – to the shoes table. It is no surprise after you see and experience the climbs that these children experience each day. There are many surfaces – rock paths, ditches, mud ravines, cobblestoned paths, broken concrete stairs – and they go on and on as you travel up the mountain or through the town. Shoes are vital….

The Guatemalan child would be put in the impromptu chair of honor or on the table. The children from our group would remove their shoes, there would be some decision-making on the style desired and size needed, the foot would be brushed off, and the new shoes would be placed on the child’s feet by “our children.” The adults helped too – and I found it a very humbling experience to perform this very simple, but important task. What a moment for these children to connect too…

Speaking of walking – we did a lot of it! (Though there are tuk-tuks available in Pana to get around - quite a treat for 5 quetzales per person. I know the kids loved it – but after 6 trips I still have never traveled in one.) I love that Mayan Families works in so many communities all around the Lake Atitlan area – Panajachel, Solola, San Jorge, Terra Linda, San Antonio, El Barranco, San Pedro… We got the chance to visit several of them (and would have experienced more except for those torrential downpours). We also drove through Santa Catarina and visited Santa Cruz by boat for an amazingly relaxing breakfast overlooking the lake. Matt & I could have hung out there and just relaxed in a hammock for a couple more hours. J We spent two days in the town of San Antonio Palopa. We had visited this town in the past for a “tourist” experience, but this time I felt like we were able to immerse ourselves more directly into the community. This town, along with many others, was directly affected by Tropical Storm Agatha. Mudslides buried individuals, homes, and damaged one of the two schools. A brand-new preschool was opened in a building above a store that we had visited on a previous trip. It provides a safe place for these children to begin learning in. Many have had their first experience with brushing their teeth in the past two months. They have the opportunity to have beans, tortillas, eggs, and other nutritious food twice a day. There was no bathroom in this temporary preschool – and now that I think back on it – the kids (4-6 years old) never clamored to go to the bathroom. However, our group needed to find one. J There was one – it was literally under the stairs that led to the preschool, covered by a shower curtain. (Just a tip, the people of Guatemala are much shorter than their American counterparts – so there wasn’t much room!)

We spent time with the kids & watched them transform into children as the bubbles and balloons came out. They opened up as we sat on the floor – eye level with them and began to play with them. Whether it was asking simple questions, “Cuantos tienes años?”, “Como se llama?”; doing simple charade animals; or taking their pictures and letting them see the “results” - we watched the “walls” come down. As Sharon, of Mayan Families, explained this simple interaction and “fun” is so very enriching to the children. It is amazing the difference you can make by just interacting with a child and the gift to us is seeing the smiles and hearing the giggles!

There were many more experiences in San Antonio … We watched “our children” join into an impromptu game of soccer with children out at recess at the local school. The goals were five gallon buckets and cinderblocks. The field was a rock, sandy area just above the lake. The background was the glorious lake with three majestic volcanoes overlooking it. You looked down at the lake’s edge and saw a group of women washing their clothes. We looked up and saw the town of San Antonio Palopo overlooking us. We heard the laughter of kids, the grunts of determination, and the shouts of teamwork…

We had a woman share her child’s toys with us… For no better of a description, they were water balls that started as beads and grew over time as placed in water. The woman dressed in traditional traje shared the playtime of throwing them against us and watching them splat. The smiles and laughter was universal. When they ran out, we understood through basic translations and hand gestures that we could get more for 1 quetzal. So, off we went – though we didn’t know where… She sent us off with her daughter, who couldn’t have been more than 4 years old. I was hand-in-hand with her, while we had 5-6 other “American” children going on the journey with us – though we still didn’t know where we were going – figuring it couldn’t be too far…. After walking for several minutes, we weren’t too sure that our 4 year old guide knew where she was going – or maybe she was just awestruck by all of these big strangers. J Eventually, a woman caught up to us and laughingly redirected us onto the correct path to the little tienda. Once we were back, they were gracious enough to find old water bottles and fill them with the water and beads for each of the children. Again, just another gift that the Guatemalan people gave to our group…

We walked the main street of San Antonio Palopo – looking into the church; watching women walking along the street talking and going to the one room local marketplace; observing clothes and seeds drying on roofs and in small courtyards; being approached by many vendors to sell their beautiful textiles; watching the few trucks try to maneuver their way through the one lane main road; and hearing the sounds of music, voices in conversation, kids yelling, and people working. We were guided up “paths” to homes to install ONIL stoves. We gasped for breath and felt our muscles tire as we watched indigenous women and men seemingly effortlessly carry cinderblocks, children, 50+lbs bags of sand, wood, etc. up the mountain. When we reached our destinations – homes we would be installing the life-changing stove – we took a moment to look around and see the beauty of the landscape. Then it was time for work…

First, shy hellos were exchanged with the family of the home. Then we needed to be sure the area designated by the family would work to install the stove before leveling the area off. Next, 11 cinderblocks purchased by the family were built up for the frame. Sand & precast concrete forms added to the base. The children in our group were able to help put the sand; ash (for sealing the sand and keep it from burning); the brick pieces (aka “the twins”, “las botas”, and “la cama”); and the wire mesh protective shield together for the stove. During the 1-2 hour long installation process, some of the volunteers would get to know the home owners – utilizing the translators & the common language of smiles, hand motions, and basic Spanish. As everyone knows – I love taking pictures and capturing memories! J There were many times that the children and adults were shy about pictures – but is amazing what digital cameras have conquered that the old film versions couldn’t. The children and adults love looking at their pictures after they are taken – some of my favorite pictures are capturing their smiles and laughter after looking at their picture! It is even more amazing when you give the children and women the chance to take a picture with your camera – and to then view what they have captured. In the end, I think that something (aka the camera) that could put up barriers – actually can be used as a tool to break down barriers …

During our first few installations – I would look around and realize the woman of the house had been gone for a while. During this process of the stove installation, the woman is asked to wash the metal plates that will go on top of the stove. Many times the washing consists of a small bowl (normally about the size of a large dog bowl) with water collected from the daily rains done on the dirt floor; but, these women will polish these metal plates with pride for 20-30 minutes.

At some point I will ask if I can see their home. It is normally a couple of small rooms with the walls made of lamina (corrugated metal sheets), concrete blocks, or branches and mud packed in between. The roofs are normally tarps or more lamina. The floor is often dirt. The items are sparse, but pride is taken with the possessions that they have. At one home, I see corn soaking in a bucket of water. In some I see a bed – others there are none. A bed is a wonderful item to have – even if there are 5-6 people that sleep in that one full-size bed. Sometimes, there will be a plastic cup nailed to a wall – filled with a toothbrush and washcloth. Occasionally, I will see a wooden table or a dresser to hold items. In one home, there is a wooden loom used for weaving. Many times there is one lightbulb hanging down in a room. What I don’t see are lots of knick-knacks, books, toys, kitchenware, clothes, a pantry full of food, a refrigerator, a washing machine, a bathroom, pictures of family members…

There is simplicity to life on one hand – but on the other it is not so simple to not know where your food is going to come from; to have to collect water from the rain, the lake, or puddles; to need to hike to the woods to collect firewood… There is pride in their homes – though we as Westerners may see only poverty. Someone once told me – their home (just like for us) is their palace – and always keep that in mind as you are a guest in their home. Look for the richness and what we can learn from each family…

There were several times through the week that we got poured on – not just a few sprinkles, but an outright downpour. We put in stoves in the rain, rode in the back of pick-up trucks getting soaked, waited for our clothes to dry out in our hotel rooms (to no avail), and waded through ankle high puddles. I can’t say that part was “fun” – but once again, how could I complain? This was in reality just an adventure for me – I wasn’t trying to sleep while rain poured down on the metal lamina over my head and seeped in on the dirt floor that other families slept on. My clothes would eventually be washed and dried in the luxury of my 15 year old washing machine and dryer. It was still an adventure to sing in the rain in the back of the truck – vs. just a nuisance that could soak the firewood needed for dinner or create a very muddy climb to my home. I knew I was “safe” from the mudslides and though it wasn’t fun knowing that mud and boulders covered the road that would keep us from visiting some of the villages we hoped to – I didn’t have to worry about climbing up and down the mountain to get to work (to help these volunteers here from the states put in stoves or get around) or to worry about a mudslide claiming my home.

During the week there were the light-hearted moments also. We weaved through the passageways that made up communities until we came out into a dirt soccer field. We watched a former Guatemalan National Team futbol player lead a warm-up and soccer game between the Guatemalan children and our children. I envisioned Blake, Jacob, Emily, Mekiah, Addison, Riley, Josie, Trevor, Baker, Trent, Tom, and Matt all playing or enjoying this experience… We played “charades” with children as stoves were installed in their homes. We watched the children in our group overcome fears of catching a chicken out of a crate and put it in a family’s woven basket to take home. Again, something that seems so simple can be life changing for a family. These pollos’ eggs will become much needed protein for families and even potentially a source of income if they can be sold at market. We watched the kids play with the baby kitten that had just been taken in by Mayan Families. They played with 20+ dogs that roamed at Sharon & Dwight’s old home – reminding me of our days volunteering in college at the Humane Society Animal Shelter in Auburn.

We watched as “the active American children” all became fixated on watching the women from San Jorge create beaded bracelets for them. One even got the hang of making them herself. We watched individuals new to Guatemala feel more secure just walking around and exploring the beauty and life of Guatemala. We laughed about the fact we sometimes took cold showers and the fact the water turned off at a certain time in the evening (leaving one nameless individual all soaped up and no water to finish the shower…). I heard more than a couple of raves about the tasty beans and tortillas served at almost meal. We tried new foods – one being a bright pink fruit called pitaya… and I got to eat my favorite Guatemalan foods – tamales & pepian!

We met awe-inspiring individuals – Sharon, Dwight, Patti, Ely, Susie, Julio, Gloria, Carlos, Rodolfo, Willy, and on and on. We heard stories of how Mayan Families started and the ways it was making a difference in children’s and family’s lives. We witnessed the hard work of the 43 Mayan Families employees even if we didn’t meet each of them. We heard laughter, learned patience, and realized a new understanding of a different way of life. We all fell in love with Mayan Families worker, Carlos, and were in awe of the issues he has dealt with in his 20 years of life. Many families determined to continue the work of Mayan Families agreed to sponsor a child – and thus gave a gift, but received an immeasurable gift upon meeting their sponsored child and hearing their story. Some individuals on the trip figured out ways they could go home and find a solution to a need presented by Mayan Families.

Matt and I talked lots and even struggled with the idea of us coming in and “changing” their way of life. Their way of life is different, and we have introduced new elements into it as more and more Westerners have come into it. There are pros and cons to this… We have come away with the fact that many of the things we are hoping to do help their basic survivability – food, basic shelter, clothes. Education & skill sets will be the one sustaining source that gives a chance out of poverty and the negative elements that derive from it (i.e., depression, abuse, hopelessness). Many of the children will go to school only through elementary school, but that may be more than what their parents experienced – and hopefully each subsequent generation will get that much further in school. Others will have the chance to attend school because they will have shoes – a requirement to attend school which does truly prevent some from attending. Some will have the chance to continue on in their education and hopefully help another generation in some way. All in all, these are still choices for families. Some will not feel it is in their best interest to improve their lives with ONIL stoves or even education. We need to respect that choice. For others, the ability to have this choice based on our actions and deeds can be a wonderful new path in life…

For me, it resolved my desire to continue building Nuestros Niños, fundraising for the children of Guatemala, and bringing groups of individuals to experience the joy and beauty of Guatemala. I can completely imagine the ladies of the group playing with the children at the preschools – helping them to make blankets, taking and printed coveted pictures of the kids, doing dance and motor skill projects with the children – or painting the concrete walls with bright colors and murals. I can imagine them weaving through pathways to deliver stoves with the men hauling the heavier items and leveling off the floors for the installation. J I can imagine the hearts opening and the understanding growing of a country filled with poverty but prosperous with hope and beauty of the individual…. It makes the time and hard work before the trip purposeful. I can’t wait for July 2011 and the many trips to follow….Angela...Summer 2010.